Saturday, September 30, 2006

Africa Through the Eyes of Others


How does an adventure traveler know she is having an impact? What keeps us going day after day, slogging through the ticks and the heat to bring you comfortable readers in your dens and internet cafes news of the Third World? It certainly isn't by cashing your subscription checks (as you can see from this photo, I've had to resort to the odious Hollywood habit of product placement). For me, the measure of a successful adventure traveler is the number of readers she can entice up out of that plush chair and into her realm. I am pleased to say that I am already at three with two more scheduled for later this fall. But these visits are more than just a testament to the transcendental works I've penned, they are also a rare opportunity for me to re-experience Africa through their eyes. The first-time traveler to Africa has a sense of wonder and bewilderment which I find sweet and childlike.

Patricia was the first to be wooed by my words. She came from Switzerland and spent much of her time assisting my assistant in her classroom. I also was invited by the school to conduct symposia on topics ranging from "Deconstructing Mass Media in Contemporary West African Society" to "How to Fit a Dozen Goldfish Crackers in Your Mouth at Once."

One thing that Patricia thought was remarkable was the segregation that is nowhere more obvious than on select beaches in Dakar. In this photo, a resort hotel's private beach abuts a popular public beach. A (Senegalese) man in a kayak rows back and forth along the border to make sure no locals cross onto the pristine, abandoned beach. At first glance, one wonders how such blatant segregation can be tolerated. On further reflection, however, I wonder who is discriminating against whom. The guys on the left look to me like they are having a lot more fun.

Next came Curt and Sarah all the way from Wisconsin. As you can see from this picture, Curt is wondering why he thought it would be a good idea to come to Africa. Spending time with them helped me see just how much I have adapted to here and how trying every day life can be. For example, I witnessed the deleterious effects of food not properly prepared. When served perfectly wrong it can take down a full grown adult for three days. I also was reminded (here I'm being diplomatic as the following fact is not generally forgotten) that it is anatomically impossible to apply sun block to one's own back. People in Wisconsin may have the luxury of forgetting this fact, but people near the equator do not.

Curt and Sarah's visit coincided with Ramadan, the holiest month for Muslims who spend every sunlit hour fasting (clearly not the religion for me). They even deprive themselves of water until after sundown when they may refuel for the next hungry, thirsty day. My Midwestern guests found out that this is not only a time for quiet, serene prayer and communication with Allah, but also a good chance to steal stuff. Crime always goes up during Ramadan and the wary tourist must fend off those who hope to pickpocket their way to a virgin-filled heaven. But mostly my guests were confronted with those on a slower path to carnal nirvana, the shysters and hucksters who merely try to talk you out of your money by offering a variety of products and services including windshield wipers, glass chess sets, underwear, acting as tour guide, and the small donation they need to refrain from keying your parked car.

But then there's my assistant Number Two -- a simple man, some say Gump-like. He sees a beautiful woman sipping coconut juice on the beach in the sunset and he just thanks Allah that he has everything he needs in the world. So dear readers, I will put my boots back on and ride off in search of more adventures to write about in the hopes that you will come see Africa through your own eyes.

Until next time, peace to all.
Omi, Baby Adventure Traveler

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